Surfing with Darryl

We've been wanting to surf ever since we knew we were moving to Hawaii. We finally went accompanied by the best surfing instructor we could wish for. Darryl is the quintessential surfer. Passionate about surfing, very laid back, always has a smile on his face. After working his night job he generously spent the morning wading out with us, giving us extra pushes, telling us when to catch the wave, always encouraging. Even if we wiped out he'd say, "you were rippin'! Next time you'll stand up, yeah?".

It was great fun! A lot of work paddling and I was sore and covered with bruises the next day. Seth actually made it to standing position. Jannie came pretty close and won the award for the most endurance. I got to my knees. Darryl of course did his famous headstand move! I can easily see how addictive surfing could be if you got good at it. It is so beautiful out there and what a rush!